DkoK: Painting a Leman Russ Tank in winter camo

Hi folks,

I´d like to show you how I paint my Leman Russ tanks for my DKoK Army. Since they will be fighting in a witer urban environment I decided to  use the old "white wash" camo that was used during WWII. It basicly is white paint over your normal tank color, applied by the soldiers during wintertime.

Let's get started with this step by step.

1.  Give the tank a light basecoat with a black primer and then apply Vallejo german panzer grey primer with an airbrush

 

2. Next is the modulation of the tank, we want it be a bit lighter on the upper sides. So I use some colors of the AK interactive (only "AK" from now on) to achieve this with my airbrush.

3.  Now I apply the company marking, which is a violet stripe.

4. Apply the decals you want. But first, put some gloss varnish on the area. After the decal is on apply 3-5 more layers of gloss varnish.

5. Next step is an invisible one. Spray the whole tank with AK Heavy Chipping medium and let it dry. Afterwards spray a thin white layer on the tank (with zenithal light in mind, so spray upper areas a bit more intense).

6. Now the weathering fun begins. Grab an old brush and some water and scrape the white paint randomly off the tank. On some areas you can increase the wear and tear and some other areas you might leave white. This gives a more realistic impression. After this step is finished, spray the whole tank with Satin Varnish. This is for protection of your work so far.

7. In the next couple of steps we use some more AK products. First up is the Filter blue for panzer grey, which is great for darklining all the rivets on the tank. You don't need to be overprecise right now, we will get rid of the excess filter in the next steps. So just let it flow in the recesses and again, have fun.

8. Paint rust streaks on the tank. Use a good brush with a fine tip for that. Vary the lenght of the streaks for a more realistic impression.

9. Now the magic is kicking in.  We use white spirit (or odorless turpentine) to blend all the excess filter with the rest of the tank. Also blend the rust streaks while moving your brush up and down. Use just a little bit of white spirit for that, theres no need to flood the tank. After this step when the paint is dry, coat everything again with Satin Varnish.

10. The same as step 8 but only with Winter streaking grime and you can also add the streaking grime to some areas you want to modulate in color.

11. Blend with white spirit. Also I have added mud to the track and lower sections of the tank. the mud was generated by mixing Natron, AK Fresh Mud, AK Wet effects fluid and brown/grey pigments. This can then be applied where wanted and sealed with a coat of satin varnish. After the satin varnish more Wet effects can be added to make some areas appear like fresh mud.

12. Painting of the metallic parts like the Aquila on the turret. Just finishing work really. Tank driver painting etc... (Tank driver isnt painted in the example yet).

This is how a force painted with this technique can look like:

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial, if there are any questions please contact me in the comments. Also, for more in depth tutorials, visit the Blog of Mig Jimenez: http://migjimenez.blogspot.co.at/

kind regards,

Nathelis

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DKoK: Painting Tutorial

Hi folks,

this time I´m back with a paint scheme tutorial for my new Death Korps of Krieg Army. So this is a small step by step and color recipe article.

I want the Army to look at home at a cold Winter urban fields, or maybe at ash wastes urban field. The colors were chosen with that in mind.



1. Building the miniature and basing it with Vallejo sandy paste, concrete rubble mix, and a little pieces of barbed wire. Priming was done with airbrush and first black, then zenithal white (2K priming).

 

2. Blending of the trenchcoat. I went for grey-blue winter colors. You'll notice that on the backside the coat is highlighted zenithal downwards, this is done against realism but for a nicer view on the tabletop.

 

Color recipe for the blending:

VMC Black

VMC Dark Bluegrey

VMC Dark Sea Blue

P3 Trollblood Base

VMC Blue Grey Pale

VMC Pale Blue

VMC White

3. Paint the gasmask, as this is the central theme of the Krieg army I painted it different than the rest of the Model. In very light colors. Note that there is texture on it and it's highlighted around the seams.

Color recipe:
VMC Cork Brown
VMC Iraqui Sand
VMC Deck Tan
VMC White

4. Paint boots and leggins/gloves. For the boots I wanted a worn leathery look. This is achieved by painting sharp highlight dots on the edges. The leggins are simply highlighted in various steps. Always remember where the light hits them from the most commong angle and highlight that part stronger.

Color recipe (boots):

VMC Black/VMC Flat Brown 50/50
VMC Flat Brown
VMC Cork Brown
VMC Iraqui Sand

Color recipe (leggins):

VMC Black/Cork Brown 50/50
VMC Cork Brown
VMC Iraqui Sand
VMC Deck Tan

5. Paint helmet and carapace armour. I wanted them to look black and dark, so while I used my usual silver NMM colors, most of the surface had to remain black with very light highlights, that are blended in a very short space to black. If you make too much of the space a highlight area, it will look grey and not black.

Color Recipe (Black):
VMC Black
VMC Dark Sea Blue
VMC White

6. Paint the violet parts. I choose a cold violet as my company colors. This bonds the army together and differentiates them from other Krieg companies (If i were ever to paint a second company...). Remember, you can desaturate colors by adding a grey of the same lightness level to it. So if the violet you have is too bright and colorful, add a bit of black/grey or white to it.

Color recipe:
VMC Black
VMC Purple
VMC White

7. Paint metallics and grey respirator. Metallics were done in TMM style with Black, GW Chainmail and VMC Metal Medium. First one can mix Black with Chainmail, to get a Dark basecoat of the areas. Then highlight with pure Chainmail and then put dot highlights with Metal Medium where the reflections should be.

The grey parts of the respirator and cable was done in 3 highlightning steps from Black basecoat.

VMC Black/London Grey 30/70
VMC London Grey
VMC White

8. Paint additional parts, pistol holder, knife, Vox cable and Vox

Pistol holder and Knife were blended with the recipe from Step 7. The vox cable was black and P3 Coal Black in different layers of transparency. The Vox itself is painted black and highlighted on the edges with Chainmail and Metal Medium.

9. basing and finishing the miniature

First I applied a layer of AK Fresh Mud to the base, and while this is still wet, put various grey pigments on that. Pk-Pro crushed glass was added for the snowy/ash effect and everything fixed with AK Gravel&Sand Fixer.

 

Hope you enjoyed that little tutorial, and if you like the miniature, you can vote on CMON for it: http://www.coolminiornot.com/338426

keep on happy painting,

Nathelis

Cat Stark base wip: Painting a stone wall

Hi folks,

yesterday I painted the stone wall of Catelyns base. took some hours but i´m really satisfied how it turned out.

 This is the palette (VMC) I used:

The trick in my opinion is a first lightness sketch of the wall, so that you have a zenithal light source (can be done via wet in wet sketch or AB) and then apply very thin layers of glazes to the single stones in different colors. So you get a natural variety of stone colors. This is how it looked after that steps:

After that every single stone needs to be shaded down (according to his position on the wall, so upper stones least) and then pure white can be used for highlights. To darken the recesses between the stones I used a black wash I applied carefully only to the areas where needed.

this is a time consuming work, but well worth it in the end!

Nathelis

Catelyn Stark 1. WIP

Hi folks,

I have started to paint a new Darksword Miniature, alltogether there are now 5 hours of work into it and I´m not even done with the skin (yes, I paint slow).

Color recipe for the skintones (all VMC):

Shadows: Mahagoni Brown, Royal Purple, Rose Brown

Midtone: BeigeRed/Iraqui Sand (50/50)
Highlight1: Light Flesh/Beige Red (50/50)
Highlight2: Light Flesh
Highlight3: Ivory

hope you find that useful!

Nathelis

Color Recipe: Blood Angels Terminator

Colors I used for my Blood Angels Terminator from GamesWorkshop:
*These are the old Citadel/GW colors! // VMC = Vallejo Model Colour

Red Armor:
Highlight IV:	GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange : GW Vomit Brown (2:1:1)
Highlight III:	GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange (2:1)
Highlight II:	GW Blood Red (pure)
Highlight I:	GW Red Gore : GW Blood Red (1:1)
Basecoat:	GW Red Gore
Shadow I:	GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple (2:1 + a tip VMC Black #169)
Shadow II:	GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple (2:1 + more VMC Black #169)
Shadow III:	GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple : VMC Black #169 (2:1:1)
Edge Highlights I:	GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange : GW Dwarf Flesh (1:1:2)
Edge Highlights II:	GW Vomit Brown (pure)

Gold NMM:
Highlight III:	GW Skull White (pure)
Highlight II:	GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Skull White (1:1:3)
Highlight I:	GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Skull White (1:1:1)
Basecoat:	GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown (1:1)
Shadow I:	GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Scorched Brown (1:1:1)
Shadow II:	GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Scorched Brown (1:1:2)
Shadow III:	GW Scorched Brown (pure)
Shadow IV:	GW Scorched Brown : VMC Black #169 (2:1)

NMM:
Highlight IV:	GW Skull White (pure)
Highlight III:	GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:3)
Highlight II:	GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:2)
Highlight I:	GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:1)
Basecoat:	GW Codex Grey
Shadow I:	GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:1)
Shadow II:	GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:2)
Shadow III:	GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:3)
Shadow IV:	GW Scorched Brown : VMC Black #169 (2:1)

p1per

Babyface skin

Hi folks,

this time I will talk a little bit of how painting tiny faces. As a lot of Miniatures are really detailed (Darksword, I´m looking at you), one can paint incredibly detailed faces without having to resort to freehands.

For example, this is the face of the Song of Ice and Fire Series Mini, Ser Loras Tyrell, the eyes are perfect sculpted, facial features are well defined, the mini is just really joy to paint.

Color recipe (all Vallejo Model Colors):

50/50 Chocolate Brown / Tan Earth
50/50 Tan Earth / Cork Brown
Cork Brown
Flat Flesh
50/50 Light Flesh/Beige Red
Ivory
White

Skin variance and shadows: Burnt Cadmium Red

Most important here is a good brush, a WN7 1 long is the best tool for that in my opinion. Even the tiny reflection dot in the eye can be painted with that amazing brush.

Two base Layers were applyed with 1:1 Paint/Thinner Medium, after that about 2 times more water was added and all the highlights/shadows were glazed/layered, the importance here is that your paint is really wet, but you have to take the water out of the brush before going onto the miniature. I use a lintless microfibre cloth for that.

Oriental Skin

Hi folks,

this is Nathelis, trying to do oriental type skin on a Nocturna Model: Freya.

I want to show you a first sketch of the skin, finishing this will require many more hours.

All paints are Vallejo Model Color:

• Mahagony Brown (+ Black for Shadows)
• Red Leather
• Ochre Brown
• Medium Fleshtone
• Iraqui Sand
• Dark Sand
• Ivory

keep on happy painting,

Nathelis