Heya!
Currently I'm working on my Dark Elf from Scale75 which I plan to enter in a contest... deadline's in two weeks so not much time left. ;)
This hasn't all been done today. ;) I actually started painting him at the beginning of March
I still have a lot of things to do and/or fix but I wanted to paint... or lets say "sketch" everything as good as possible without it taking too much time and then move to the base.
No sooner said than done!
Worked on his base today.. well.. it didn't go as fast as I wished, I also had some trouble "glueing" the wall onto the plinth... hope it will stay where it is once the Milliput dries. Guess I will know tomorrow. :D But here some pics:
Plan for tomorrow is to do some finishing touches for the raw base, fix some spots like the transition between the wall / floor and start painting it. :)
p1per
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Tutorial - TrueMetallicMetal (TMM)
posted by p1per
Since I had to do the backside of my Troll's axe at the end I thought I might give it a try and take some step-by-step pictures of my painting. Unfortunately some pictures turned out quite blurry but I hope that the progress is still recognizable during the different steps.
Dilution:
Basecoat: 1 : 1 Paint : Water
Everything else: 1 : 2 Paint : Water (unless otherwise stated)
Let's go!
1. Silver-TMM
Basecoat was done with Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal(this one's an equivalent to GW Boltgun Metal).
Shadows:
For the first shadow I picked a green color P3 Ordic Oliveand started glazing it towards the shadows starting about in the middle of each part. I will be reworking the midtones later on so don't worry about starting the shadows in the middle.
Ok, this one looks weird but it will come out nicely at the end. :D
Next I used a mix of P3 Cygnar Blue Base : P3 Exile Blue ( 1 : 1 ) . Again, glazing towards the shadows and leaving a bit of the green untouched. I also try to make the paint more opaque in the deeper shadow areas.
To intensify the shadows, my next mix consists of P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple ( 1 : 1 )and like before leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched I start glazing towards the deeper shadows.
Ok, enough of those funky colors. :D It's time to move towards black for the deepest shadow. For the next shadow I used P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black ( 1 : 1 : 1 )and concentrating more and more on the deepest shadows.
Note:The name P3 Coal Black is a bit irritating since it's not really a black, not at all. It's more like Vallejo Model Colour's Dark Sea Blue maybe even a bit brighter.
For the last shadow I added some GW Chaos Black to the previous mix P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black : GW Chaos Black (1 : 1 : 1 : 1) and glazed it on the very end where the deepest shadow would lie.
Highlights:
First thing I do before I start with the actual highlights is bringing back some of those metallic pigments as well as the midtone. For this I use the basecoat color Coat'd'Arms Gunmetaldiluted with a ratio of about 1 : 4 with water. I glaze 1(-2) thin(!) coats over the entire area (yes also shadows!) and then, with the same diluted paint, start to bring back the midtones and soften transitions.
Slowly taking shape… :D
Now highlights. For the first highlight I use a mix of Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal : Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (this one's an equivalent to GW Mithril Silver) (1 : 2). Like with the shadows I glaze it upwards moving my brush towards the highlight areas.
Followed by pure Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silverleaving some of the previous layer untouched.
To increase the shine and contrast for the top highlight I used a mix of Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2) and glazed it in as a final "bright spot" / highlight.
Not done yet – still missing edge highlights and scratches. :)
For the edges I actually use pure VMC Metal Medium but it's quite exhausting to paint it pure over dark layers of paint to really get the full effect and bright edges. Therefore I "pre-prime" the edges with the following mix P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2). Due to the white paint and already some metallic pigment in it, it will be much easier to apply the VMC Metal Medium in the next step (and actually see it shine).
As you can see although I mixed some VMC Metal Medium to my white paint those edges aren't really shiny (yet) but I will deal with it now. Using only VMC Metal Mediumand going over all the edges I previously "pre-primed".
Here we go shiny edges. Now onto the scratches. Like with the edges I first pre-painted the highlights with P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)and then going over all lines again with pure VMC Metal Medium. I started with the white highlights and not with the black actual scratches because this way it is often easier for me to make the white lines real thin by painting over it later with my black color.
And finally the scratches with pure GW Chaos Black(undiluted!).
That's it for the Silver TMM part – now the Golds.
I also reglazed the deepest (last) shadow in between to cover some of those metallic pigments that were shining through from glazing Gunmetal over the entire area.
2. Gold-TMM
It's more or less the same for the Gold as it was for the Silver so I will keep the descriptions rather short.
Basecoat was done with GW Shining Gold.
Shadows:
I applied the first shadow using GW Snakebite Leatherand again starting about in the middle and pulling my brush towards the shadows.
Next I applied some GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (2 : 1)leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched.
Unfortunately it's quite difficult to see the difference in the next steps until the last two shadows are applied. Anyway technique's the same always leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched and moving the brush towards the shadows.
Continued work on the shadows with GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 1)
Pure GW Scorched Brown
For the last shadow I added some black and applied it to the deepest shadow parts, GW Chaos Black : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 2)
Highlights:
First thing I did was bringing back some metallic pigments as well as the midtones and softening of the transitions (like described in the silver part). Glazed 1(-2) times over the whole area with some diluted GW Shining Gold(diluted 1 : 4 with water) and then worked on bringin back the midtone and softening transitions.
Followed by adding highlights moving my brush towards the light / brightest spots with
- GW Shining Gold : GW Auric Armour Gold (1 : 1) - GW Auric Armour Gold
The last highlight was done with a mix of GW Auric Armour Gold : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1)concentrating on the brightest spots.
Edges were done the exact same way like in the silver part. Pre-priming with P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)and then going over with pure VMC Metal Medium.
Colors Overview:
TMM - Silver:
Basecoat:Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal
Shadows:
1.) P3 Ordic Olive
2.) P3 Cygnar Blue Base : Exile Blue (1 : 1)
3.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple (1 : 1)
4.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black (1 : 1 : 1)
5.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black : GW Chaos Black (1 : 1 : 1 : 1)
Highlights:
1.) Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal : Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (1 : 2)
2.) Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (Mithril Silver)
3.) Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (Mithril Silver) : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)
TMM - Gold:
Basecoat:GW Shining Gold
Shadows:
1.) GW Snakebite Leather
2.) GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (2 : 1)
3.) GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 1)
4.) GW Scorched Brown
5.) GW Chaos Black : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 2)
Highlights:
1.) GW Shining Gold
2.) GW Shining Gold : GW Auric Armour Gold (1 : 1)
3.) GW Auric Armour Gold
4.) GW Auric Armour Gold : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1)
Edges (Silver & Gold):
1.) P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 2)
2.) VMC Metal Medium
That's it. :)
Hope you enjoyed this little Step-by-step.
Cheers
p1per
Dilution:
Basecoat: 1 : 1 Paint : Water
Everything else: 1 : 2 Paint : Water (unless otherwise stated)
Let's go!
1. Silver-TMM
Basecoat was done with Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal(this one's an equivalent to GW Boltgun Metal).
Shadows:
For the first shadow I picked a green color P3 Ordic Oliveand started glazing it towards the shadows starting about in the middle of each part. I will be reworking the midtones later on so don't worry about starting the shadows in the middle.
Ok, this one looks weird but it will come out nicely at the end. :D
Next I used a mix of P3 Cygnar Blue Base : P3 Exile Blue ( 1 : 1 ) . Again, glazing towards the shadows and leaving a bit of the green untouched. I also try to make the paint more opaque in the deeper shadow areas.
To intensify the shadows, my next mix consists of P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple ( 1 : 1 )and like before leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched I start glazing towards the deeper shadows.
Ok, enough of those funky colors. :D It's time to move towards black for the deepest shadow. For the next shadow I used P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black ( 1 : 1 : 1 )and concentrating more and more on the deepest shadows.
Note:The name P3 Coal Black is a bit irritating since it's not really a black, not at all. It's more like Vallejo Model Colour's Dark Sea Blue maybe even a bit brighter.
For the last shadow I added some GW Chaos Black to the previous mix P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black : GW Chaos Black (1 : 1 : 1 : 1) and glazed it on the very end where the deepest shadow would lie.
Highlights:
First thing I do before I start with the actual highlights is bringing back some of those metallic pigments as well as the midtone. For this I use the basecoat color Coat'd'Arms Gunmetaldiluted with a ratio of about 1 : 4 with water. I glaze 1(-2) thin(!) coats over the entire area (yes also shadows!) and then, with the same diluted paint, start to bring back the midtones and soften transitions.
Slowly taking shape… :D
Now highlights. For the first highlight I use a mix of Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal : Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (this one's an equivalent to GW Mithril Silver) (1 : 2). Like with the shadows I glaze it upwards moving my brush towards the highlight areas.
Followed by pure Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silverleaving some of the previous layer untouched.
To increase the shine and contrast for the top highlight I used a mix of Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2) and glazed it in as a final "bright spot" / highlight.
Not done yet – still missing edge highlights and scratches. :)
For the edges I actually use pure VMC Metal Medium but it's quite exhausting to paint it pure over dark layers of paint to really get the full effect and bright edges. Therefore I "pre-prime" the edges with the following mix P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2). Due to the white paint and already some metallic pigment in it, it will be much easier to apply the VMC Metal Medium in the next step (and actually see it shine).
As you can see although I mixed some VMC Metal Medium to my white paint those edges aren't really shiny (yet) but I will deal with it now. Using only VMC Metal Mediumand going over all the edges I previously "pre-primed".
Here we go shiny edges. Now onto the scratches. Like with the edges I first pre-painted the highlights with P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)and then going over all lines again with pure VMC Metal Medium. I started with the white highlights and not with the black actual scratches because this way it is often easier for me to make the white lines real thin by painting over it later with my black color.
And finally the scratches with pure GW Chaos Black(undiluted!).
That's it for the Silver TMM part – now the Golds.
I also reglazed the deepest (last) shadow in between to cover some of those metallic pigments that were shining through from glazing Gunmetal over the entire area.
2. Gold-TMM
It's more or less the same for the Gold as it was for the Silver so I will keep the descriptions rather short.
Basecoat was done with GW Shining Gold.
Shadows:
I applied the first shadow using GW Snakebite Leatherand again starting about in the middle and pulling my brush towards the shadows.
Next I applied some GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (2 : 1)leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched.
Unfortunately it's quite difficult to see the difference in the next steps until the last two shadows are applied. Anyway technique's the same always leaving a bit of the previous layer untouched and moving the brush towards the shadows.
Continued work on the shadows with GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 1)
Pure GW Scorched Brown
For the last shadow I added some black and applied it to the deepest shadow parts, GW Chaos Black : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 2)
Highlights:
First thing I did was bringing back some metallic pigments as well as the midtones and softening of the transitions (like described in the silver part). Glazed 1(-2) times over the whole area with some diluted GW Shining Gold(diluted 1 : 4 with water) and then worked on bringin back the midtone and softening transitions.
Followed by adding highlights moving my brush towards the light / brightest spots with
- GW Shining Gold : GW Auric Armour Gold (1 : 1) - GW Auric Armour Gold
The last highlight was done with a mix of GW Auric Armour Gold : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1)concentrating on the brightest spots.
Edges were done the exact same way like in the silver part. Pre-priming with P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)and then going over with pure VMC Metal Medium.
Colors Overview:
TMM - Silver:
Basecoat:Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal
Shadows:
1.) P3 Ordic Olive
2.) P3 Cygnar Blue Base : Exile Blue (1 : 1)
3.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple (1 : 1)
4.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black (1 : 1 : 1)
5.) P3 Exile Blue : P3 Beaten Purple : P3 Coal Black : GW Chaos Black (1 : 1 : 1 : 1)
Highlights:
1.) Coat'd'Arms Gunmetal : Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (1 : 2)
2.) Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (Mithril Silver)
3.) Coat'd'Arms Enchanted Silver (Mithril Silver) : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1-2)
TMM - Gold:
Basecoat:GW Shining Gold
Shadows:
1.) GW Snakebite Leather
2.) GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (2 : 1)
3.) GW Snakebite Leather : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 1)
4.) GW Scorched Brown
5.) GW Chaos Black : GW Scorched Brown (1 : 2)
Highlights:
1.) GW Shining Gold
2.) GW Shining Gold : GW Auric Armour Gold (1 : 1)
3.) GW Auric Armour Gold
4.) GW Auric Armour Gold : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 1)
Edges (Silver & Gold):
1.) P3 Morrow White : VMC Metal Medium (1 : 2)
2.) VMC Metal Medium
That's it. :)
Hope you enjoyed this little Step-by-step.
Cheers
p1per
BaneLegions - Muldo
posted by p1per
Heya!
Painted this one also fro the WAMP BaneLegions 2012 Contest. Like I already said he also didn't place but I'm very happy how his skin turned out. :)
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
Painted this one also fro the WAMP BaneLegions 2012 Contest. Like I already said he also didn't place but I'm very happy how his skin turned out. :)
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
BaneLegions - Ulric
posted by p1per
Heya!
Painted this guy along with Muldo, also from BaneLegions, for the WAMP BaneLegions 2012 contest. Unfortunately neither one placed but I'm still very happy how they turned out.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
Painted this guy along with Muldo, also from BaneLegions, for the WAMP BaneLegions 2012 contest. Unfortunately neither one placed but I'm still very happy how they turned out.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
PrivateerPress - Troll Axer
posted by p1per
Heya!
After my horrible attempt at painting TMM on Dark Vlad I decided to give it another go with this miniature from PrivateerPress.... and what can I say - I turned out way better than my last try and I'm really happy with my metallics on this one. :)
He also made second place in WAMP's PrivateerPress 2012 Contest, in Single Category.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
After my horrible attempt at painting TMM on Dark Vlad I decided to give it another go with this miniature from PrivateerPress.... and what can I say - I turned out way better than my last try and I'm really happy with my metallics on this one. :)
He also made second place in WAMP's PrivateerPress 2012 Contest, in Single Category.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
Enigma - Dark Vlad
posted by p1per
Heya!
This one was my first try at some serious TMM (TrueMetallicMetal) which went horrible wrong *haha* :D Anyways... even though I didn't really like how the metallics turned out I decided to finish him otherwise he would probably be still sitting in my "Hall of Shame" of unfinished miniatures.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
p1per
This one was my first try at some serious TMM (TrueMetallicMetal) which went horrible wrong *haha* :D Anyways... even though I didn't really like how the metallics turned out I decided to finish him otherwise he would probably be still sitting in my "Hall of Shame" of unfinished miniatures.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
p1per
Freebooter - Brahyn
posted by p1per
Heya!
Next one is Brahyn from Freebooter painted in May 2011 as a birthday gift.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like her!
p1per
Next one is Brahyn from Freebooter painted in May 2011 as a birthday gift.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like her!
p1per
Wyrd - Seamus The Mad Hatter
posted by p1per
Heya!
Second one is going to be Seamus The Mad Hatter from Wyrd:
Putty & Paint
CoolMiniOrNot
Hope you like him!
p1per
Second one is going to be Seamus The Mad Hatter from Wyrd:
Putty & Paint
CoolMiniOrNot
Hope you like him!
p1per
Color Recipe: Blood Angels Terminator
posted by p1per
Colors I used for my Blood Angels Terminator from GamesWorkshop:
*These are the old Citadel/GW colors! // VMC = Vallejo Model Colour
p1per
*These are the old Citadel/GW colors! // VMC = Vallejo Model Colour
Red Armor: | |
Highlight IV: | GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange : GW Vomit Brown (2:1:1) |
Highlight III: | GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange (2:1) |
Highlight II: | GW Blood Red (pure) |
Highlight I: | GW Red Gore : GW Blood Red (1:1) |
Basecoat: | GW Red Gore |
Shadow I: | GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple (2:1 + a tip VMC Black #169) |
Shadow II: | GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple (2:1 + more VMC Black #169) |
Shadow III: | GW Red Gore : GW Liche Purple : VMC Black #169 (2:1:1) |
Edge Highlights I: | GW Blood Red : GW Blazing Orange : GW Dwarf Flesh (1:1:2) |
Edge Highlights II: | GW Vomit Brown (pure) |
Gold NMM: |
|
Highlight III: | GW Skull White (pure) |
Highlight II: | GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Skull White (1:1:3) |
Highlight I: | GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Skull White (1:1:1) |
Basecoat: | GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown (1:1) |
Shadow I: | GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Scorched Brown (1:1:1) |
Shadow II: | GW Snakebite Leather : GW Bubonic Brown : GW Scorched Brown (1:1:2) |
Shadow III: | GW Scorched Brown (pure) |
Shadow IV: | GW Scorched Brown : VMC Black #169 (2:1) |
NMM: | |
Highlight IV: | GW Skull White (pure) |
Highlight III: | GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:3) |
Highlight II: | GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:2) |
Highlight I: | GW Codex Grey : GW Skull White (1:1) |
Basecoat: | GW Codex Grey |
Shadow I: | GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:1) |
Shadow II: | GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:2) |
Shadow III: | GW Codex Grey + VMC Black #169 (2:3) |
Shadow IV: | GW Scorched Brown : VMC Black #169 (2:1) |
p1per
GW - Blood Angels Terminator
posted by p1per
Heya!
I'm going to post some of my old stuff as a start, beginning with my Blood Angels Terminator which I painted last year for the Golden Vinci 2012 Contest. Unfortunately he didn't win anything but I'm still very proud of him.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
I'm going to post some of my old stuff as a start, beginning with my Blood Angels Terminator which I painted last year for the Golden Vinci 2012 Contest. Unfortunately he didn't win anything but I'm still very proud of him.
CoolMiniOrNot
Putty & Paint
Hope you like him!
p1per
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Moonelf face
posted by Nathelis
Hi folks,
this time I´m back with a color recipe for a moonelf face and a work in progress shot of my very own moonelf miniature.
hope you find that useful,
Nathelis
this time I´m back with a color recipe for a moonelf face and a work in progress shot of my very own moonelf miniature.
I extracted the colors from this Blizzard Artwork and noted with what colors one can achieve the tones |
this is how it can look like on a miniature, a little bit more contrast is needed and I can still introduce more blue. |
hope you find that useful,
Nathelis
Luz & Alice from Nocturna Models
posted by Nathelis
Hi,
today stuff from Nocturna arrived, I will show you the unpacking fotos and high resolutions photos of Nocturnas high quality resin cast.
I´m very satisfied with the quality product Noturna delivered here, there are very little bubbles in the resin and I didn't notice any miscasts. So cheers to this great company.
keep on happy painting,
Nathelis
today stuff from Nocturna arrived, I will show you the unpacking fotos and high resolutions photos of Nocturnas high quality resin cast.
I´m very satisfied with the quality product Noturna delivered here, there are very little bubbles in the resin and I didn't notice any miscasts. So cheers to this great company.
keep on happy painting,
Nathelis
First steps with oil
posted by Nathelis
Hi folks,
today I tried oil colors for painting a bust. So far I really like it and can recommend it for everyone who wants to paint models that are 54mm or bigger in scale. I bought the Winsor and Newton Artist line of colors, in case you want to look for some yourself.
I´ll just show you some impressions:
Palette:
Applying white for highlights:
first sketch finished (not dry!):
keep on happy painting,
Nathelis
today I tried oil colors for painting a bust. So far I really like it and can recommend it for everyone who wants to paint models that are 54mm or bigger in scale. I bought the Winsor and Newton Artist line of colors, in case you want to look for some yourself.
I´ll just show you some impressions:
Palette:
Applying white for highlights:
first sketch finished (not dry!):
check out this amazing tutorial for painting with oil colors:
and of course there is something too on massive vodoo about oil colors:
- http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.co.at/2011/07/tutorial-miniature-painting-with-oil.html
- http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.co.at/2011/12/oil-paints-complete-your-acrylic.html
keep on happy painting,
Nathelis
Babyface skin
posted by Nathelis
Hi folks,
this time I will talk a little bit of how painting tiny faces. As a lot of Miniatures are really detailed (Darksword, I´m looking at you), one can paint incredibly detailed faces without having to resort to freehands.
For example, this is the face of the Song of Ice and Fire Series Mini, Ser Loras Tyrell, the eyes are perfect sculpted, facial features are well defined, the mini is just really joy to paint.
Color recipe (all Vallejo Model Colors):
50/50 Chocolate Brown / Tan Earth
50/50 Tan Earth / Cork Brown
Cork Brown
Flat Flesh
50/50 Light Flesh/Beige Red
Ivory
White
Skin variance and shadows: Burnt Cadmium Red
Most important here is a good brush, a WN7 1 long is the best tool for that in my opinion. Even the tiny reflection dot in the eye can be painted with that amazing brush.
Two base Layers were applyed with 1:1 Paint/Thinner Medium, after that about 2 times more water was added and all the highlights/shadows were glazed/layered, the importance here is that your paint is really wet, but you have to take the water out of the brush before going onto the miniature. I use a lintless microfibre cloth for that.
this time I will talk a little bit of how painting tiny faces. As a lot of Miniatures are really detailed (Darksword, I´m looking at you), one can paint incredibly detailed faces without having to resort to freehands.
For example, this is the face of the Song of Ice and Fire Series Mini, Ser Loras Tyrell, the eyes are perfect sculpted, facial features are well defined, the mini is just really joy to paint.
Color recipe (all Vallejo Model Colors):
50/50 Chocolate Brown / Tan Earth
50/50 Tan Earth / Cork Brown
Cork Brown
Flat Flesh
50/50 Light Flesh/Beige Red
Ivory
White
Skin variance and shadows: Burnt Cadmium Red
Most important here is a good brush, a WN7 1 long is the best tool for that in my opinion. Even the tiny reflection dot in the eye can be painted with that amazing brush.
Two base Layers were applyed with 1:1 Paint/Thinner Medium, after that about 2 times more water was added and all the highlights/shadows were glazed/layered, the importance here is that your paint is really wet, but you have to take the water out of the brush before going onto the miniature. I use a lintless microfibre cloth for that.
Oriental Skin
posted by Nathelis
Hi folks,
this is Nathelis, trying to do oriental type skin on a Nocturna Model: Freya.
I want to show you a first sketch of the skin, finishing this will require many more hours.
All paints are Vallejo Model Color:
Nathelis
this is Nathelis, trying to do oriental type skin on a Nocturna Model: Freya.
I want to show you a first sketch of the skin, finishing this will require many more hours.
All paints are Vallejo Model Color:
- Mahagony Brown (+ Black for Shadows)
- Red Leather
- Ochre Brown
- Medium Fleshtone
- Iraqui Sand
- Dark Sand
- Ivory
Nathelis
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